How do you install gutters

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Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Calculate and purchase at least the total length of gutters needed, as well as the necessary downspouts and attachment brackets.

Gutters should be attached to the fascia and run the entire length of the roof, ending with a downspout. If a gutter run will measure longer than 40 feet 12 m , the gutter should be positioned to pitch down from the middle, aimed toward a downspout at each end. A fascia bracket will be attached to every other rafter tail, or approximately every 32 inches 81 cm.

Inspect the fascia and soffit for any rot or decay before moving on to installation. What good will installation be if the fascia holding your gutters up rots away? To inspect the fascia, poke at the ends of fascia boards, or where two ends of fascia boards meet.

If it feels spongy or compromised, you may want to consider replacing the fascia before moving on. You are going to install working gutters, after all. If you believe the rot to be caused by other factors, consider choosing a material like aluminum or vinyl that withstands the elements a bit better than wood. Part 2. Measure and snap a layout line using a chalk line. You want your gutters to work properly, and in order for them to do that, they need to have a slight downward angle to feed any running water toward the downspout.

Longer gutters 35 feet and longer will slope from the center to each end. They will start at the same height in the middle and tilt downward to the edges, ending at the same point. Shorter gutters should tilt from one end to the other. They should start at a high point and end at a lower point.

Locate the starting point, or highest point, of the gutter run. If your fascia board is longer than 35 feet If it's shorter than 35 feet Then, locate the ending point, or the downspout location, of the gutter run. This will be at the corner of a fascia board, and may include one downspout being fed by two different gutters. Snap a chalk line between the high and low points. Use a level or a measuring stick to try to get an even line.

This will be a guidepost for your gutters, so it helps to be precise. Part 3. Cut the gutters to size. Use a hacksaw, or heavy duty tin snips to cut the gutter at the appropriate measurement. You may need to cut your gutters at a 45 degree angle if two gutters meet at a corner.

Attach the gutter brackets on every other rafter tail. After you've marked the location of each one, drill pilot holes along every other rafter tail to make installation of the brackets easier. Brackets will either snap onto the gutters or will be mounted into the face board first, depending on the type of gutters you purchase.

Review the manufacturer's recommendations for your particular type of gutter. Mark the location for the downspout opening on the gutter. Use a jigsaw to cut a square opening at the appropriate place in the gutter. Attach the downspout connector and end cap to the gutter using silicone sealant and short metal screws.

An end cap should be used on any open-ended run of gutter. Mount the gutters. Slip the gutter into place by tilting it upward until its back end fits into place at the top of the bracket. The gutter should either snap into place or be reasonably snug. Use a stainless steel lag screw long enough to penetrate the face-board at least 2 inches 5 cm.

Wrap a thin aluminum strip around the underside of each gutter corner, riveting it into place. To keep water from leaking through small cracks or openings at conjoined corners, insulate the aluminum strip further using waterproof caulk.

This aluminum strip can be spray-painted ahead of time to blend in seamlessly with the color of the gutter. Make the strip long enough to extend an inch or two beyond the top of the gutter. Cut a triangular shape into the top of the extending strip, and then fold each corner or the strip over onto the top of the gutter, creating a clean look. Attach the downspout to the gutters via the downspout connector.

Make sure that the tapered end of the downspout is facing down and aimed in the appropriate direction. Fasten the downspout to the gutters and the downspout to the outlet tube either with pop rivets or the appropriate screws. Seal any gutter connection seams with a heavy bead of sealant and allow to dry overnight. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.

Because aluminum doesn't rust, warranties focus on paint durability, usually 20 to 25 years. Gutter components are made by several manufacturers and are available through lumberyards, hardware stores, and home centers. The most popular gutter style is 5-in. Type K. It's a universal size and shape, so you can mix brands, In fact, there are times when it pays to shop around. Our local home center, for example, had attractive prices, but only sold gutters in ft. To get the ft. Gutters come in , , and ft.

Downspouts come in 3- and 4-in. If you have trees overhead, choose 4-in. This inexpensive combination can save you from repeated overflows, corrosion, and dangerous ladder work. Beyond the gutter and downspouts, you'll find inside and outside corner pieces, end caps, slip[joint slice fittings, downspout elbows and a variety of fasteners.

And to make the system watertight, you'll need a tube or two of high-quality, gutter lap sealer. Pop rivets or sheetmetal screws. Screws and rivets are usually available in the same colors that the gutters come in.

Touchup paint is also available. The greatest variety is in the hangers and fasteners. For years, gutters were fastened with spikes and ferrules or hanger straps. Spikes and ferrules were used most often on eaves with vertical fascia boards. Hangers worked better on roofs with angled fascias or exposed rafter tails. Today, hidden hangers are almost universally preferred. These span the inside of the gutter, and cannot be seen from the found.

We found two types of hidden hangers: a heavier version with a built-in fastening screw and a lighter version that can be nailed or screwed. The lighter hangers cost less and work well, so we used them almost exclusively, about every 2 ft.

We used the heavier design at stress points such as corners and near downspouts. Because you'll want to assemble as much as you can on the ground, set a sheet of plywood on a pair of sawhorses to serve as a workstation. Then, determine where to start your gutter job.

With a gable roof or a simple hip roof, just start at one end. Ours is a hit roof with a front dormer, so the easiest place to start is in tone of the inside corners. Begin by installing a slip-joint splice on each end of an inside corner fitting. Slide the splices on as far as they'll go. Then, trim the first section of the gutter to length with tin snips. Use a square and pencil to mark the gutter length and cut to the line. If the tin snips distorts the profile of the gutter, just bend it back into shape with needle-nose pliers.

Gutter material also can be cut with a chop saw or sabre saw, but be sure to wipe the steel filings from the painted surface. To fasten these components, you can use either short sheetmetal screws or Pop rivets. Rivets are more work, but they're more attractive and they don't leave sharp piunts inside the gutter. When it bottoms out, squeeze the handle several times until the rivet flattens and the stem shears off. If the opposite end of this gutter terminates, install an end cap.

Caps come in left and right profiles, and can be mechanically fastened with screws or rivets, or simply glued in place with gutter lap sealer. We riveted the top front flange and used lap-seal caulk on the rest of the joint. Next, install a downspout outlet fitting in the gutter.

Measure carefully to determine the best location for the outlet fitting. Then, set the fitting on the bottom of the gutter and trace around it. Cut a starter hole in the gutter with a chisel, drill, or sabre saw and nibble out the finished opening with tin snips. Finally, insert the filling into the hole and fasten it with short screws. As an alternative to installing the outlet fittings, you can buy in. With all the necessary fittings attached to this length of gutter, install a hanger bracket every 2 to 3 ft.

Tip the hooked end of the bracket under the front flange and press the remaining end over the back fo the gutter. With help, lift the gutter in place, and secure the corner first, screwing the bracket into the roof's fascia.

Secure the rest of the hangers with 2-in galvanized nails or screws. And, a level gutter is the obvious answer when there's a downspout at both ends, such as on our hip roof. Longer gutters and larger roofs require more downspouts.